On the menu are “water souchy,” a soup made from freshwater fish, wine, vinegar and parsley, as written by William Verral, an early champion of French food and landlord of the White Hart Inn in Lewes, Sussex during the mid-18th century. Verral recommends “several sorts of small fish, flounders, gudgeons, eels, perch, and a pike or two”; Turner uses pike, fried in a little butter, and adds it to Verral’s soup mixture with parsley root, celery and other vegetables: tangy but meaty and delicious. Interestingly, Turner sees this dish as a precursor to fish pie; a hearty, one-pot meal. But he finishes it with the flourish of courgette crabs fashioned with food cutters.
Story: Natalie Whittle | Photo: Wikimedia Commons